South Lake Tahoe to Chester

I’ve finished up the Sierra and headed into NorCal, into the third of the five major sections of the PCT. I’m finally more than halfway through my journey, but I’m starting to see some of the effects of the unprecedented drought, in the form of rampant wildfires. It’s unnerving hiking through smoke, but it gives me an extra incentive to push faster. All I can do is hope to outrun the fires and any trail closures that will follow them.

June 30th – Day 79

I spent the day in South Lake Tahoe resting and doing my town chores. I resupplied, ate some great food, and took a lot of naps. I headed to the post office to mail home my bear can and my crampons, which I wouldn’t be needing anymore. I was grateful to ditch the extra weight, especially when the receipt showed that together they weighed four pounds! I was looking forward to hiking with a lighter, less bulky pack for the rest of the trek.

July 1st – Day 80

Keebler’s friend gave us a ride back to the trailhead in the morning. She dropped us off at the point where the Old PCT crosses the highway, so I hiked the Old PCT back to where I was picked up the first time on the New PCT and on to Echo Lake. At the lake we stopped at the Chalet for ice cream and met up with Smiles and Sloth! It was good to see them after so long. When we finished our ice cream we continued on around Echo Lake, which has stunning vacation cabins on its banks.

After Echo Lake the trail climbs to Lake Aloha, which is said to be the most beautiful lake in the area. It was a very nice lake, but after spending weeks in the Sierra I was less impressed than I thought I’d be. Still, it was a nice place of a break on a hot day. After Lake Aloha we climbed to the top of a pass where we watched the sunset and made camp for the evening. It was a beautiful evening to kick off our first night in NorCal, and it made me feel like I was starting fresh after the last section of trail hadn’t turned out that great.

July 2nd – Day 81

We got an early start the next morning as we were excited to get to a trailhead about 18 miles ahead where Keebler’s uncle would meet us and take us to his cabin on the shores of Lake Tahoe. It was a very warm day, but pretty as we hiked through fields of plants that looked a little like cabbages. When we got to the trailhead we came across a couple grilling hot dogs for thru hikers. They also had cold drinks and lots of snacks. We were so excited to get some trail magic to cap off a good day. I even got to pet their dogs!

Keebler’s uncle picked us up and drove us back to the cabin where his wife, son, son’s fiance, and friend were also staying. They made an incredible dinner for us and were extremely welcoming. It made me miss my own family, and I thought about all of the fun my relatives must have had at the family reunion that I’d missed the week before. It felt so nice to feel like part of a family. The cabin retained heat well, and it was a warm evening.

July 3rd – Day 82

We got breakfast at a spot close to the cabin and I ordered a mug-sized mimosa, remembering only after I was nearly done with it that I had to hike 21 miles that day. I was just too excited to finally have a mimosa. We got back to the trailhead in the late morning and headed up over ridges with spectacular views.

On one of the ridges I got cell service and learned that Zod was getting off trail. He hadn’t been feeling into it for a while, and decided to head home. I would definitely miss his goofiness on trail.

At a stream crossing I ran into a very large group of hikers enjoying a long lunch break. I had a great time chatting with hikers I hadn’t had the opportunity to talk to in a while. We relaxed, thinking we had plenty of time to get to camp. When I finally packed up and continued on, I realized that I’d made a mistake. Storm clouds were gathering, and I was heading up a ridge.

I passed a ranger and he warned me to camp low, as this would be the worst thunderstorm of the season. I was very nervous, but all low campsites were occupied and the rest of my group was ahead, so I kept walking. As I approached the top of the ridge lightning and thunder started. I was grateful that the trail goes right through several ski slopes. I told myself that if anything got strick by lightning, it would probably be the metal ski lift supports, and not me.

At the top of the climb I stopped to take a quick picture of a ski run called “high voltage” that I found amusing in the middle of the storm. Right as I took the picture, lightning flashed behind the sign, making it what is likely the best timed photograph I have ever taken. Soon heavy rain started as I ran down the mountain with Keebler and Smiles.

I made camp early because I hate the rain. Keebler thought the site was too high, so she kept heading down. Fortunately, neither of us needed to worry because the storm cleared up almost immediately after I had my tent up. I guess the “worst storm of the season” was incredibly localized. I resolved to get up early the next day in order to make it to Donner Ski Ranch by 11, where Keebler’s parents would be picking us up.

July 4th – Day 83

I was out of camp before 5:30 as I hiked towards the ski ranch. It was a beautiful morning and I passed a lot of day hikers out celebrating the holiday. As I approached the ski ranch I encountered something I hadn’t seen in a while: snow on trail. I took a hard fall trying to skirt around it. I decided to get new shoes in town, as the tread on my current pair was completely worn down. As I continued on, the next day hiker I passed told me that thru hikers were his heroes, so I didn’t feel so embarrassed about my fall anymore.

I got to the ski ranch right at 11 as they opened. I’d heard that thru hikers could claim a free drink at the bar, so I headed over to claim my free drink. The bartender checked my ID and permit and then handed me a 42 oz bottle of cheap malt liquor. I couldn’t remember the last time I’d seen one, maybe college? I laughed. Clearly this was the restaurants way of making sure we stayed a while, and bought a lot of food.

Keebler’s friends and family brought lots of snacks and we feasted on the deck of the ski ranch. Finally after a few hours Keebler, Pez, Wiggles, Smiles and I packed up and piled into Keebler’s step dad’s truck to get a ride into Reno, where Pez had gotten a great deal on a room at the Atlantis Resort.

The outside of the resort looked rundown, but inside it felt like we might as well have been in Vegas. We all showered, and Keebler and I took the laundry to the laundromat. After our chores were done we headed to the buffet for dinner. A group of five hungry thru hikers, we did some damage at the buffet. Afterwards I walked around the casino floor, watched Pez play slots, Wiggles play Craps, and Keebler play blackjack, and even caught a glimpse of some fireworks coming from downtown.

July 5th – Day 84

We considered hitting the trail that morning, but quickly decided against it and Pez called to extend the hotel reservation. I went grocery shopping, got new shoes at REI, and headed back to the room. When I got back the front desk called the phone in the room, reminding us that we were passed checkout. I was confused, because Pez had extended the reservation, but they told us we had minutes to get out. What followed was a confusing game of phone tag, but eventually everything was figured out. We spent the rest of the afternoon by the resort pool, where Smiles tried to use his sleeping pad as a floaty to find a leak he couldn’t pin down. He never found the leak, bit he did learn that sleeping pads make good floaties.

July 6th – Day 85

We had a difficult time getting back to the trailhead due to a road closure, but eventually we made it. I tried to get a head start on the group while they chatted with other hikers, but my plan backfired after I immediately got lost and had to bushwhack through a ravine to get back to the trail. I was, once again, bringing up the rear.

That evening we got our first glimpse of a plume of smoke in the distance from a large wildfire. The fire wasn’t near the PCT, but it was a sobering reminder that fire season had started, and we were weary of what the trail might look like in the months to come.

July 7th – Day 86

We had a big day ahead of us to hike to a pickup location where Baby Bigfoot’s parents would pick us up and take us to a family friend’s house, who were kind enough to host us. It was a hot day, but the miles passed quickly with the promise of real food at the end.

When we got to the road we headed to the town of Graeagle. The couple that hosted us was so kind and welcoming and we all got showers, got to do laundry, and we’re treated to another fantastic meal. They also had the cutest, most friendly puppy I’d seen in a long time. I slept well, grateful for the hospitality.

July 8th – Day 86

It was back to the trail the next day. We hiked up and around the Sierra Buttes, officially ending The Sierras section of the PCT, the second of the five major sections of the PCT. Now, we had nearly five hundred miles of NorCal ahead of us on the third of the five sections of the PCT. It was another scorching day in the heat wave, and we watched more fires burn in the distance as we hiked on.

July 9th – Day 87

It was another hot day. When we looked at our maps, we saw that we’d be entering a recent burn zone. With too many dead trees burn zones do not make good campsites, so it would have to be a long day to get to a suitable campsite. I wasn’t thrilled at the prospect of hiking almost 30 miles that day, but as smoke from a new wildfire popped up in the distance I knew that it was the right call. We needed to MOVE.

About 8 miles from camp we came across a paved road where a man and his son gave out water and Gatorade to hikers. I’ve never been a fan of Gatorade, and I never drank it growing up, even in my youth soccer days, but this Gatorade tasted like the best drink I’d had in a month. It was exactly what I needed. The man also told us that we could take an old logging road instead of the trail for a few miles to avoid the numerous blowdowns that would get in our way. We were grateful, and took the road to a spring, one of very few water sources in the area, where we are dinner before continuing on.

It was a race to camp after dinner to get there before dark, the dead trees making me feel a little like I was in a Dr. Seuss universe, but I made it! I felt proud of myself for completing my first 30 mile day.

July 10th – Day 88

The day started with a long descent through burned forest to the Feather River far below. The climb down was pleasant, but the climb back up was on the south facing slope, shadeless due to the fire, and absolutely brutal in the heat wave. I had to constantly remind myself to drink my warm water until I could finally switch it out for some cold water at the spring at the top of the hill.

We finally made it out of the burn zone by the time we got to our campsite, and were able to camp without having to worry about trees falling on us as we slept. I hadn’t done 30 miles that day, but the heat took it out of me, and I was exhausted just the same.

July 11th – Day 89

It was another uneventful morning as the trail followed a ridge before descending into Belden Town. Belden Town is in a deep valley along the Feather River, far below the 7000 ft ridges the trail follows before and after the town. The climb out of the town is known to be one of the toughest in this section, and the heatwave was still in full force .

When I got into Belden the weather forecast said 102. It didn’t feel quite that hot, but it was still very, very warm. To make matters worse, the general store, bar, and restaurant did not have AC. All doors and windows were thrown open, and a giant fan sat in the middle of the room, circulating air, but it was sweltering. I bought a few days worth of food at the store, a burger at the restaurant, and then grabbed some cold beer and ice cream to wait out the worst of the heat.

The heat didn’t fade. Finally at 8 I knew I had to get going, despite the fact that it was still somewhere in the mid 80s outside. As we headed out of town we passed a few cute historical sites, and Keebler pointed out some wild blackberries that we all snacked on. I made camp at a creek after only a couple miles with Baby Bigfoot while the rest carried on, preferring to hike in the dark.

July 12th – Day 90

Baby Bigfoot and I got up early the tackle the rest of the climb before it got too hot. We had about 11 miles left. The morning was pleasant, but as noon approached the heat was oppressive again. I passed a beautiful meadow and a sign welcoming me to the Cascades. It was strange to think that this would be the last mountain range I’d hike through on trail, strange to think that these mountains stretch all the way to Canada.

At a dirt road I came across some trail magic hosted by a man named Gordon and his friend Mark. Gordon was quite the character. As I approached and sat down he asked where I was from, and I told him Los Angeles. That was the wrong answer. Gordon immediately went on a tirade about Angelenos stealing the water, and how we used it to build a metropolitan shithole while the people in these parts could have used it to grow food and raise cattle. I was taken aback. I’d never met someone who was legitimately upset by the aquaduct, but clearly Gordon was. He was still very hospitable, and made me a burger and offered me a salad. I gladly accepted, and laughed when he told me that while I was welcome to drink as much beer as I liked, I was absolutely NOT entitled to any of their water. I knew he was only half joking.

At the top of the climb I was rewarded with my first view of Mt. Lassen, towering over anything around it. A volcanic peak, Lassen looked so different than any mountain I’d seen on trail to date, and it was exciting. The trail went over ridges and around smaller peaks the rest of the day, with Lassen peaking in and out of view. I made camp alone with a great view of Lassen and the sunset.

July 13th – Day 91

I woke up feeling excited. It was a big day, for several reasons. 1) It was my three month anniversary on trail. 2) My mother would be meeting me in Chester. And 3) I would be passing the PCT midpoint. It was weird to think that I had hiked so much and was only halfway done, but also encouraging to think that I could finally say I was “mostly” done.

I got to the halfway point mid day without having seen anyone on trail. It was strange that the trail had felt so empty in the previous days. I signed the log book and enjoyed my lunch, waiting for someone to come by and take my picture, but no one came. Finally after over an hour I gave up and started to leave, but a few minutes down trail I remembered that my phone had a self timer. I raced back and had some fun playing with the self timer to get a few good shots of me at the midpoint. It was worth backtracking for it.

I got to the highway and hitched into Chester before my Mom made it out of rental car hell at the airport, so I let myself into the hotel room to shower before she got there. Once she arrived, we headed to an Italian restaurant on Lake Almanor to celebrate my 3 months on trail and reaching the halfway point. It was a great evening, and I looked forward to the next half of the trail, hoping that it would prove to be just as awe inspiring as the first.

Until next time,

Megan “Fire Ant” Spencer